C&H SweetSpot - What's New For Bakers Like You - Winter 2005
C&H SweetSpot - What's New For Bakers Like YouWinter 2004












 
 
Sweet Spot Archives
 

Sugar: Hands-down Winner in Celebrity Pastry Chef Taste Test

The low-carb craze has sparked debate among dessert enthusiasts: Do artificial sweeteners perform as well as sugar in baking?

To find out, three renowned baking experts, Elizabeth Faulkner of Citizen Cake, Emily Luchetti of Farallon, and baking teacher Carolyn Weil, recently compared the taste and performance of artificial sweeteners, "sugar blends," and pure cane sugar for the San Francisco Chronicle.

After whipping up a variety of desserts cookies, brownies, cupcakes, ice cream and crème brulée made with pure cane sugar, artificial sweetener, and one of the new "sugar blends," the results favored sugar, hands down.

In all desserts, pure cane sugar yielded superior taste. After sampling the desserts prepared with both the artificial sweetener and the blend, the pastry chefs and Chronicle food staff noticed an unpleasant, fake sweetness that lingered in their mouths for up to several hours. While tasting, the panel found that the artificial sweeteners' sweetness took a few moments to develop, and then was concentrated on the tip of the tongue. "It has no depth," explained Faulkner. They also discovered that the artificial sweeteners often blocked the flavors of other ingredients. "The egg yolks, cream, and vanilla in the ice cream and crème brulée disappeared, and even the cocoa in the brownies barely came through," the Chronicle article said.

Performance was also an issue. The chefs couldn't believe how badly the brownies made with artificial sweetener turned out. Luchetti remarked that the brownie batch was rubbery and dry and "looked like a floor tile." The ice cream prepared with artificial sweetener "left the ice cream so hard it broke into shards when scooped, and made a custard that Luchetti said 'looks like airline scrambled eggs,'" the Chronicle reported.

The experts have spoken: artificial sweeteners and the new sugar blends, hybrids that combine granulated sugar with artificial sweeteners, cannot match the taste of pure cane sugar. As Falkner put it, "It just doesn't perform as well, and it doesn't have the taste [of sugar] . . . You're just so much more satisfied when you eat the real deal.'"




Sweet Spot Archives
Fall 2004
Summer 2004
Spring 2004
January 2004
Fall 2003
Summer 2003
Spring 2003
Winter 2003
Fall 2002
Summer 2002
Spring 2002
Winter 2002
Holiday 2001

Delicious Beginnings

Cinnamon Apple Coffee Cake

The holiday guests have left, the decorations have come down. But just because you've changed calendars doesn't mean you have to say farewell to the sharing and warmth that define the holiday season. You can resolve to make the new year a happy one by starting each morning with a sweet, healthy treat that makes the whole day seem brighter—and by spreading the happiness around.

Muffins, quick breads, scones, and coffee cakes are quick and easy to make—they usually require just one bowl for mixing and one pan for baking—and much tastier and better for you than their store-bought counterparts. They fill your kitchen with yummy aromas and turn even cold, gray mornings into celebrations. And they're ideal for sharing with friends, neighbors, and officemates in "random acts of sweetness" that will be remembered long after the last crumb has disappeared. Bake an extra batch for freezing or giving away. Then add juice and freshly brewed coffee or tea to make it a very good morning indeed.

Quick Breads and Muffins

Even if you've never baked in your life, you can enjoy instant success with quick breads and muffins—which are really the same batter baked in different pans. What makes them truly "quick" is the fact that they're made with baking soda, baking powder, or both, rather than with yeast, which takes time to work its magic. Unlike yeast breads, quick breads and muffins require no kneading—just some fast mixing in a bowl. And we do mean fast: the secret of quick-bread success is to avoid overmixing the ingredients, which can create tough, rubbery results. (A few lumps in the batter are perfectly OK.)

Be sure not to overbake, either—follow baking times and test for doneness. To prevent soggy bottoms, remove muffins or quick breads from the oven, cool them slightly in their pans, then turn them out onto a wire cooling rack to cool thoroughly. Or serve them warm with butter, preserves, or Lemon Curd, or all by themselves.


Banana bread and muffins are excellent beginner's recipes that advanced bakers still love to make. (They're perfect for kids, too—they'll love squishing the ripe bananas with a fork or potato masher.) Our Banana Nut Bread is a classic: just moist and dense enough, and enhanced by the rich flavor of C&H Pure Cane Dark Brown Sugar. Our Banana-Raisin Bran Muffins are unusually light and tender, sure to win over even people who claim they "hate health food"; optional additions of granola, orange zest, and walnuts make them flavorful and crunchy.

No fresh berries on the shelves? Go ahead and substitute frozen raspberries or blueberries in this terrific Streusel-Topped Blueberry Muffin recipe. It can also be made with a cup of chopped fresh apples or pears. For a heartier offering, try our Pumpkin Bread—made with nutritious pumpkin purée, nuts, raisins, and spices—or Spiced Zucchini Bread, which gets its spiciness from nutmeg (grate your own for even more flavor depth).

Ready to try something more adventurous? Carrot Cake Bread combines the richness of traditional carrot cake with the convenience of a loaf—and you can dress it up with an orange-flavored cream-cheese "frosting." Our Tender Lemon Muffins get their tenderness from yogurt in the batter and their tangy taste from a drizzle of sweetened lemon juice while they're still warm from the oven. And you don't have to wait for Thanksgiving to serve Glazed Orange-Cranberry Muffins—just keep a bag of cranberries in the freezer and chop them while they're still frozen to add to the batter.

Scones—Not Just for Teatime!

Whether you pronounce it "skon" or "skoan," this quintessential English afternoon bread is anything but fussy or upper crust. (It isn't even English in origin—the scone was invented in Scotland, where it's still traditionally made with oats.) In fact, scones are easy and fun to make. The dough is kneaded briefly (just until the dough holds together) before being patted into a circle and cut into circles or wedges. Don't add flour to your countertop as you would for pie pastry, and handle the dough as little as possible. To prevent scorching the bottoms of the scones, place a second baking sheet under the one the scones are on.

Think of scones as baking-powder biscuits made with a little extra butter. Milk, buttermillk, cream, or yogurt contribute tenderness; some recipes require an egg. Traditional additions and flavorings include currants (you can substitute raisins), lemon, and orange; for a pretty presentation, scones can be topped with a glaze or cinnamon sugar.


Cranberry Scones

Our Orange Currant Scones combine two classic scone ingredients, and an orange glaze made with C&H Pure Cane Powdered Sugar gives them a sweet, shiny surface. Apple Pecan Scones are an All-American variation; a sprinkling of cinnamon sugar added before baking makes them fragrant and slightly spicy. And our Lemon Cream Scones, made with whipping cream and golden raisins, are rich enough to serve as a lunchtime dessert or mid-afternoon snack.

Coffee Cake—Nostalgia by the Slice

Nothing says "come over and visit for a while" like freshly baked coffee cake. Although it may evoke images of 1950s kitchens and housewives in frilly aprons, coffee cake is a very good match for busy 21st-century lifestyles. Faster, easier, and more casual than layer cakes, coffee cakes require only basic skills and minimal cleanup. They're meant to be enjoyed over breakfast, brunch, or coffee break, preferably with a cup of good coffee and plenty of good conversation among friends.

Although similar cakes appear in many cultures—babka in Poland, streusel kuchen in Germany, brioche in France—true coffee cake is thought to be an American invention dating from the last quarter of the 19th century. Why? Because in 1859, an American inventor patented the first commercial baking powder, inspiring cooks to create recipes that took advantage of the shortened baking times possible with the fast-acting new leavening agent.

Many popular coffee cakes incorporate a layer of fruit, preserves, or a sweet, crumbly mixture called streusel (German for "sprinkle") that often serves as topping. Our Golden Brown Coffee Cake is a classic streusel cake, baked in a Bundt pan and made meltingly tender by the addition of buttermilk. (Unless the recipe specifies otherwise, most coffee cakes benefit from being baked in a shiny metal pan, which yields a tender, golden crust.) Apricot-Prune Streusel Cake, a 1999 winner of the C&H Baking Contest, includes fruit in the batter and a dusting of C&H Pure Cane Powdered Sugar on top.

Our Orange-Walnut Coffee Cake uses a whole orange—peel, pulp, and juice—along with ground nuts and raisins to create a tangy "bite" of flavor folded into a tender batter. And if you're looking to impress a brunch crowd or book group, look no further than Cinnamon Apple Coffee Cake, with its cinnamon-flavored apple slices layered in a rich, orangey batter.

Now that you've got the hang of it, don't stop with the occasional morning treat for your family! Quick breads, coffee cakes, and muffins are always popular at potlucks and bake sales. With very little effort, you may find yourself on the best-seller list!

Quick Tip:
Bake quick breads in mini loaf pans (rule of thumb: one standard recipe fills three mini pans). Not only does this shorten the baking time, but you'll have an extra loaf or two to share with friends. Wrap loaves tightly in aluminum foil and seal in freezer bags to freeze until you're ready to serve or share.


Baker’s Profile:
Jenn Dunklee


As nine-year-old Jenn Dunklee eagerly watched the crust of her first strawberry-rhubarb pie turn golden brown, did she have a vision of her mission in life? Stranger things have happened. After all, Jenn fondly remembers picking fresh berries from her backyard, rolling out pie dough alongside her father in the kitchen, and gathering her family around the table to enjoy her homemade treats. These special memories ultimately inspired Jenn, who today shares her baking expertise at "in-home dessert parties" around the San Francisco Bay Area, to build her life around baking.

To share her passion for baking with others, Jenn started Baking with Jenn, which offers hands-on baking lessons to dessert enthusiasts at "in-home dessert parties." Believing it's more fun to bake your cake and eat it too, she provides ingredients, aprons, and culinary know-how at parties where guests receive baking lessons and then enjoy their sweet creations in one another's company. Long after the last party plate is cleared, Jenn hopes to inspire others to express their creativity through baking. "I find it incredibly rewarding when clients tell me they are excited to take what they've learned and bake homemade desserts for friends, families, or others in their community," she says.

Jenn says the key to baking success is to have fun. "Baking is about more than creating a perfectly moist cake—it's about the enjoyment you share in the kitchen or at the table with people you love," she explains.

To create special memories in the new year, try preparing Jenn's deliciously crisp Apple Strudel with family or friends. "This fresh Apple Strudel is a wonderful dish to prepare with others—you'll appreciate the company and the extra hands when stretching the dough," she says.

Jenn also recommends using the highest-quality ingredients to achieve the best results for your desserts. "I've reached for C&H Pure Cane sugar in the pink-and white bag since I was a girl. When you find something that works, you stick with it."

For more information, or to request a dessert party or private lesson, visit www.BakingWithJenn.com